Updaterino for anyone who cares to read it...
I am in Montpellier, awaiting the train to Barcelona. Why did I flee Nice so precipitously, having spent barely 12 hours there? Simply put, Nice is not Nice. I mean, the city repulsed me. Yesterday, the day's travelling began with a 200 yard sprint, me carrying both heavy packs, to an early train that was about to leave from Venice (Yes we really did want to get out that badly.... hadn't worked that hard since Infantry training in Gagetown N.B. in '97).... The day's travelling ended with us stepping off the train in Nice, greeted by the overpowering stench of a big pile of dogcrap that someone had stepped in. The smell actually made my eyes water...
Dogcrap. It is everywhere in Nice. It should be on the city's coat of arms. It is the perfect symbol for this city that Emily and I both found to be quite grimy and unremarkable. Granted... you can say "Aha, James, but you did not take the time to sample the city's many charms" To which I reply, if you have to wade through three football field lengths of manure and detritus to get to those charms, is it really worth it? I have heard people say that Marseilles is the pimple on the otherwise lovely countenance that is Mediterranean France, but I would point out that a nasty boil has developped in the area of the French Riviera.
To be fair, I did make the moronic decision of showing up in Nice sans logement during the Cannes Film Fest and the Monte Carlo Grand Prix, so basically, you can call the Nice fiasco my comeuppance. In spite of everything, I gotta say that the scenery around Monaco, Cannes, Nice and points West on the Cote d'Azur is as good as people say it is. Also, somewhat to my surprise, the Nicois were all very friendly, and none mocked my Canuck accent when I spoke French. Em and I managed to find a shithole room for quite cheap in a city where every fleabag dive appeared to be booked, so to celebrate our success, and mark her imminent departure for England, we did dinner and drinks and managed to salvage something from yesterday's debacle.
Today, we got up early so that she could catch her plane to Gatwick, and so that I could grab the first thing smoking out of the area. I am gonna miss Em, who has been an amazing travelling companion with her patience, great sense of humour, and ability to mix powerful concoctions of narcotics to keep my sickness at bay ;o) Definitely a true friend.
Friday, May 21, 2004
Where to begin? Where did I leave off, for that matter? The last couple of days have been hectic to say the least. I am currently sitting in an internet cafe in Nice, France. A couple of days ago, I was in Siena... but then, you already know that, don't you? The morning after our second night in Siena, Emily and I decided to move on. It wasn't that we hadn't enjoyed the city... as you may have gathered, I'm basically ready to move there... it was that we both had to adjust our schedules to accommodate Venice. In order to do that, we decided to catch a mid-day train to Florence. That turned out to be a crazy decision...
Before leaving, we decided to check out the Church where Saint Catherine of Siena took her vows. It isn't every day you see the mummified skull of a Saint, but there was Catherine, or rather, there was her head, in a little chapel inside the church. I still can't decide what to make of this bizarre holy relic, but it certainly had an impact of everyone there.
We walked out to the train station with our heavy packs... Emily, always the trooper, had a pack that looked bigger than her. Nevertheless, she soldiered on. We realized that our afternoon trip to Florence would be rushed, but we wanted to go to the Galleria dell'Academia to see Michaelangelo's David before bidding farewell to Firenze once and for all.
As it turned out, we managed to rush to the gallery, spend an hour there, and rush back... but I have to admit it was a bit stressful... we only managed to catch our train by a couple of minutes and we had to run like mad to do it. Still.... I have seen David. Massive, magnificent, beautiful, sublime... he was everything I imagined and he was definitely worth the headache. All other sculpture pales in comparison to this masterpiece.
Arriving in Venice that evening, we trudged wearily to our accomodations, but all fatigue disappeared when we went for a walk along the canals. Venice, long past its era of glory, is now delapidated, shabby, and even a bit vulgar. We even heard that barely half of the buildings there are occupied. Still, there is something magical about the place. We wandered the narrow alleys and along the waterways. Every corner was a postcard picture. I almost started to get used to it!
The next morning, we discovered why they call Venice the most expensive town in Italy. It was highway robbery at every cafe, usurious prices for every service, and plain pickpocketing at the souvenir stalls. For the first time since I arrived in Italy, I found myself genuinely annoyed at the temerity of the hawkers and chiselers. There was also an element of contempt about the place. The locals kinda made you feel like you were the scum of the earth. Somehow, we managed to not get fleeced too badly. By suppertime (where we met back up with David, yet again, and a nice Aussie couple who happened to be friends with a friend of Emily's from Melbourne... small world!) we decided that we would be out of Venice the next day, notwithstanding the fact that we hadnt gone for one of those Gondola rides!
So... yesterday was a travel day... a long tortuous trainride from Venice to Milan to Genoa and finally, here I am in Nice... but more on Nice later. I have to get to Barcelona now!
I have good memories of Venice... the Accademia Gallery and Saint Mark's square were particularly impressive, but sadly, the place will always just seem like a novelty and a giant tourist trap to me... a sad fate for the city that was once known as the Most Serene Republic and was considered a world power among the nation states of the earth
Before leaving, we decided to check out the Church where Saint Catherine of Siena took her vows. It isn't every day you see the mummified skull of a Saint, but there was Catherine, or rather, there was her head, in a little chapel inside the church. I still can't decide what to make of this bizarre holy relic, but it certainly had an impact of everyone there.
We walked out to the train station with our heavy packs... Emily, always the trooper, had a pack that looked bigger than her. Nevertheless, she soldiered on. We realized that our afternoon trip to Florence would be rushed, but we wanted to go to the Galleria dell'Academia to see Michaelangelo's David before bidding farewell to Firenze once and for all.
As it turned out, we managed to rush to the gallery, spend an hour there, and rush back... but I have to admit it was a bit stressful... we only managed to catch our train by a couple of minutes and we had to run like mad to do it. Still.... I have seen David. Massive, magnificent, beautiful, sublime... he was everything I imagined and he was definitely worth the headache. All other sculpture pales in comparison to this masterpiece.
Arriving in Venice that evening, we trudged wearily to our accomodations, but all fatigue disappeared when we went for a walk along the canals. Venice, long past its era of glory, is now delapidated, shabby, and even a bit vulgar. We even heard that barely half of the buildings there are occupied. Still, there is something magical about the place. We wandered the narrow alleys and along the waterways. Every corner was a postcard picture. I almost started to get used to it!
The next morning, we discovered why they call Venice the most expensive town in Italy. It was highway robbery at every cafe, usurious prices for every service, and plain pickpocketing at the souvenir stalls. For the first time since I arrived in Italy, I found myself genuinely annoyed at the temerity of the hawkers and chiselers. There was also an element of contempt about the place. The locals kinda made you feel like you were the scum of the earth. Somehow, we managed to not get fleeced too badly. By suppertime (where we met back up with David, yet again, and a nice Aussie couple who happened to be friends with a friend of Emily's from Melbourne... small world!) we decided that we would be out of Venice the next day, notwithstanding the fact that we hadnt gone for one of those Gondola rides!
So... yesterday was a travel day... a long tortuous trainride from Venice to Milan to Genoa and finally, here I am in Nice... but more on Nice later. I have to get to Barcelona now!
I have good memories of Venice... the Accademia Gallery and Saint Mark's square were particularly impressive, but sadly, the place will always just seem like a novelty and a giant tourist trap to me... a sad fate for the city that was once known as the Most Serene Republic and was considered a world power among the nation states of the earth
Tuesday, May 18, 2004
After we walked the girls to the bus stop and wished them well on their way to Rome, Emily and I kinda just wandered the streets of this incredible town. Whereas Florence seems to be more of a Renaissance town, Siena is pure medieval, from its the crenelated tower of its townhall, to the historic banners of its 9 subdivisions. Later, we talked and ate the leftovers from lunch for supper as it rained for the first time since my first night in Italy... pretty incredible luck actually!
Around 9 pm, we heard a terrific commotion in the street outside and rushed out of our hotel, le tre donzelle ("the three damsels"-- I noted the connection to our three american friends that we had met a few hours before and found it a bit spooky.
The people of Siena were celebrating the fact that their hardluck football team had not been "relegated" and so were still a part of Italy's first division. It was organized pandemonium. There was singing and bands playing as the horde carried distinctive black and white banners through the medieval streets to the piazza in the centre of town.
Yesterday, we took it easy, seeing the amazing Gothic Cathedral and a couple of other landmarks, but otherwise resting. Emily and I have both caught nasty colds. Luckily, she is a nurse, and has been keeping me doped up with a steady stream of illegal medication (joking). In spite of our sorry state, we got dressed up and went for a great meal at a fantastic restaurant. I am getting spoiled by all this fantastic Italian food! Today, we are going to do a bit more sightseeing, and then it is off to Venice? Why Venice all of a sudden? Do you even have to ask?... it is Venice!
Around 9 pm, we heard a terrific commotion in the street outside and rushed out of our hotel, le tre donzelle ("the three damsels"-- I noted the connection to our three american friends that we had met a few hours before and found it a bit spooky.
The people of Siena were celebrating the fact that their hardluck football team had not been "relegated" and so were still a part of Italy's first division. It was organized pandemonium. There was singing and bands playing as the horde carried distinctive black and white banners through the medieval streets to the piazza in the centre of town.
Yesterday, we took it easy, seeing the amazing Gothic Cathedral and a couple of other landmarks, but otherwise resting. Emily and I have both caught nasty colds. Luckily, she is a nurse, and has been keeping me doped up with a steady stream of illegal medication (joking). In spite of our sorry state, we got dressed up and went for a great meal at a fantastic restaurant. I am getting spoiled by all this fantastic Italian food! Today, we are going to do a bit more sightseeing, and then it is off to Venice? Why Venice all of a sudden? Do you even have to ask?... it is Venice!
Sunday, May 16, 2004
Last night, we went out on the town in Florence. Although a lovely city, the place is not known for its nightlife, from what I can tell. Still, fortified with a couple of bottles of wine a few shots of Absynth with melted sugar (55% alcohol and a kick like an angry mule), Emily, James, and David set off to see what was going on. We ended up in a little bar just down the way from the hotel Bellavista, which, true to its name, has a great view of the hills surrounding Florence. Since I was already gassed on wine --and as I figured out later, allergy medication-- I nursed my beer and chatted with my companions.
A few minutes after we arrived, Katie, Meagan, and Lindsay arrived. They were three american girls accompanied by some local Italian. We kinda naturally gravitated toward them as the only other english speakers in the bar and by the end of the night we had made boozy plans to all come to Siena this morning. As it turned out, David decided to head to Cinque Terre, but the rest of us jumped on a slow train and ended up spending the afternoon picnicking in the Piazza Campofiori and feasting on italian bread, sausages, cheese, sundried tomatoes and olives (with the obligatory bottle of chianti of course). Since the american girls were heading on to Rome, we figured it was a good idea to nurse our hangovers in this beautiful town before they had to tackle the big city.
Lunch with four lovely ladies in a medieval piazza in the heart of Tuscany... I must have done something good in a past life!;-)
A few minutes after we arrived, Katie, Meagan, and Lindsay arrived. They were three american girls accompanied by some local Italian. We kinda naturally gravitated toward them as the only other english speakers in the bar and by the end of the night we had made boozy plans to all come to Siena this morning. As it turned out, David decided to head to Cinque Terre, but the rest of us jumped on a slow train and ended up spending the afternoon picnicking in the Piazza Campofiori and feasting on italian bread, sausages, cheese, sundried tomatoes and olives (with the obligatory bottle of chianti of course). Since the american girls were heading on to Rome, we figured it was a good idea to nurse our hangovers in this beautiful town before they had to tackle the big city.
Lunch with four lovely ladies in a medieval piazza in the heart of Tuscany... I must have done something good in a past life!;-)
Saturday, May 15, 2004
Hooked up last night with some friends I met in Rome --Emily followed me up a day later (I think she was getting a bit overwhelmed by the eternal city... quite understandably!) and David had finished his quick jaunt to the south. After a fantastic day alone in Florence wandering this splendid city, I was ready for company again. We had a great supper -you havent eaten steak until you've had Florentine bisteka- and got a bit blitzed on some cheap wine. It seems that all wine here, even the cheap stuff, is good.
This morning, I cured my hangover with a nice small Italian breakfast, and we headed to the Uffizi gallery at 9 pm to beat the crowds. The Uffizi gallery (literally "office" -named for the former public buildings used by the Medicis that it now occupies) is the little Florentine museum that happens to hold a large proportion of the world's art treasures from the Renaissance period. In this gallery, it seems that every second painting is a masterpiece. I'm talking Michelangelo, Carravaggio, Veronese, Rubens, Titian, Giotto, Pontormo, da Vinci and of course Botticelli's "Birth of Venus", which, judging from the amount of posters featuring this image sold in the gallery's giftshop, is the gallery's most famous piece.
We wandered, awestruck, through the 45 rooms, barely aware of the time. At 2pm we stumbled out into the famous Pizza Della Signoria, footsore and slightly giddy. What an incredible feast for the eyes... but, having nourished the soul, we now needed to feed the stomach We grabbed some bread, ham, cheese, and tomatoes from a local deli and headed down to the Arno for a picnic lunch on the floodway. There were a few sunbathers there, crumpled on the concrete slab. With the Ponte Vecchio as a backdrop, Emily, David, and I washed down our little feast with some leftover wine from last night and roasted in the Tuscan sun. I couldn't have imagined a better day!
This morning, I cured my hangover with a nice small Italian breakfast, and we headed to the Uffizi gallery at 9 pm to beat the crowds. The Uffizi gallery (literally "office" -named for the former public buildings used by the Medicis that it now occupies) is the little Florentine museum that happens to hold a large proportion of the world's art treasures from the Renaissance period. In this gallery, it seems that every second painting is a masterpiece. I'm talking Michelangelo, Carravaggio, Veronese, Rubens, Titian, Giotto, Pontormo, da Vinci and of course Botticelli's "Birth of Venus", which, judging from the amount of posters featuring this image sold in the gallery's giftshop, is the gallery's most famous piece.
We wandered, awestruck, through the 45 rooms, barely aware of the time. At 2pm we stumbled out into the famous Pizza Della Signoria, footsore and slightly giddy. What an incredible feast for the eyes... but, having nourished the soul, we now needed to feed the stomach We grabbed some bread, ham, cheese, and tomatoes from a local deli and headed down to the Arno for a picnic lunch on the floodway. There were a few sunbathers there, crumpled on the concrete slab. With the Ponte Vecchio as a backdrop, Emily, David, and I washed down our little feast with some leftover wine from last night and roasted in the Tuscan sun. I couldn't have imagined a better day!
Friday, May 14, 2004
How does one describe Pompei? It is as if the ancient Romans had departed the bay of Naples in the last couple of years for some mysterious reason and their city had fallen into disrepair... like those abandoned bungalows you sometimes see in rough parts of the city. It is like you are looking at homes that were abandoned 20 years ago... not buried 2000 years ago. The frescoes, stonework, fountains, courtyards... all immaculately preserved, all fresh, alive. It is also immense... acres and acres of buildings preserved beneath the volcanic ash of vesuvius. The echoes of a vibrant city, a city with personality, is what you find there. Not sterile monuments dedicated to a god-emperor, but little touches of domestic life, the life of the ordinary Roman. The grisly plaster casts of the dead of pompei show that death came swiftly to many that dwelt in that city, and their anguished grimaces and contorted limbs show us that their last moments were painful and terrifying. I shuddered more than once.
Now, I am in Florence. Unbearably gorgeous city... My mom's favourite, I seem to recall. I had to rush from the bus to the hostel to the trainstation to make the Naples-Rome-Florence connection, but it was worth it. In just half a day, I travelled up half the italian peninsula. On the train up, I met a nice young american couple who gave me some tips on what to see in Florence.. we also discussed world events. On this trip, I have yet to meet a single American who supports Bush.. and yet the polls tell us that the race is still fairly close... granted, I have met mostly left and right coasters, rather than folks from the heartland... I arrived late last night and, in spite of my foolish choice not to book ahead, I managed to find a room at a little Pensione just a few steps from the Train station and the City Centre. Today, I am going to take it easy. After the hustle and bustle of the Capital, it will be nice to just go slow for a day or two, and savour the sights and sounds... after all, I am on vacation!
Now, I am in Florence. Unbearably gorgeous city... My mom's favourite, I seem to recall. I had to rush from the bus to the hostel to the trainstation to make the Naples-Rome-Florence connection, but it was worth it. In just half a day, I travelled up half the italian peninsula. On the train up, I met a nice young american couple who gave me some tips on what to see in Florence.. we also discussed world events. On this trip, I have yet to meet a single American who supports Bush.. and yet the polls tell us that the race is still fairly close... granted, I have met mostly left and right coasters, rather than folks from the heartland... I arrived late last night and, in spite of my foolish choice not to book ahead, I managed to find a room at a little Pensione just a few steps from the Train station and the City Centre. Today, I am going to take it easy. After the hustle and bustle of the Capital, it will be nice to just go slow for a day or two, and savour the sights and sounds... after all, I am on vacation!
Wednesday, May 12, 2004
Just checked the Playoff standings.
GO FLAMES GO
Bring the Cup back to Canada, willya?
Jarome has just become the most popular name for newborn boys in Southern Alberta
Meanwhile, in Italy... Going to Pompeii tomorrow. Arrivederci Roma. Then it is on to Firenze.
Today, I visited the Campidoglio. Cant believe I almost missed it. An incredible collection of priceless art treasures and more statues than any reasonable Roman emperor could possibly have any use for. Beautiful. Magnificent. Sublime. What else can I say? Par for the course as far as Rome is concerned. Will my streak continue with Naples and Pompeii (Only a day trip)... what about Florence. Lets wait and see!
GO FLAMES GO
Bring the Cup back to Canada, willya?
Jarome has just become the most popular name for newborn boys in Southern Alberta
Meanwhile, in Italy... Going to Pompeii tomorrow. Arrivederci Roma. Then it is on to Firenze.
Today, I visited the Campidoglio. Cant believe I almost missed it. An incredible collection of priceless art treasures and more statues than any reasonable Roman emperor could possibly have any use for. Beautiful. Magnificent. Sublime. What else can I say? Par for the course as far as Rome is concerned. Will my streak continue with Naples and Pompeii (Only a day trip)... what about Florence. Lets wait and see!
Yesterday was about unfinished business. Specifically, the Vatican museums and St. Peter's Basillica. Should you visit Rome and leave without seeing the Sistine Chapel and the view from the top of the Dome of San Pietro? Sure, but you would miss two of the biggest highlights... of course, you can't possibly hope to see everything this city has to offer. With this in mind, I jumped on a tour with Emily, another Aussie that I met two days ago. The Vatican museums are so huge, it would take several lifetimes to explore each of them in detail. With a tour, you have the advantage of a guide, you puts everything in context and shows you the highlights. The Sistine Chapel is every bit as exquisite as people say it is. But whereas most people focus on the ceiling, I was captivated by Michelangelo's depiction of the Last judgment on the wall, with St Bartholemew, a martyr who was skinned alive, holding his own skin, within which is concealed a portrait of the artist!!!
After leaving the tour we went to the top of the Dome of St Peter's and hung out for a while, taking in the panoramic view. Later, we walked down some sidestreets, looking for family that Emily had it town... we couldnt find them, but spent an enjoyable afternoon cruising Rome's less touristy streets. Towards the end of the day, we happened upon a church containing the mortal remains of St Ignatius, the founder of the jesuits and patron of my high school! I was pretty blown away.... Last night was the usual amazing supper (just like the night before... kinda getting routine), followed by drinks by the Trevi fountain, and another late night... not sure I can --or should-- keep this pace up!
Ah, I can rest tomorrow!
After leaving the tour we went to the top of the Dome of St Peter's and hung out for a while, taking in the panoramic view. Later, we walked down some sidestreets, looking for family that Emily had it town... we couldnt find them, but spent an enjoyable afternoon cruising Rome's less touristy streets. Towards the end of the day, we happened upon a church containing the mortal remains of St Ignatius, the founder of the jesuits and patron of my high school! I was pretty blown away.... Last night was the usual amazing supper (just like the night before... kinda getting routine), followed by drinks by the Trevi fountain, and another late night... not sure I can --or should-- keep this pace up!
Ah, I can rest tomorrow!
Monday, May 10, 2004
Another delicious meal last night at a restaurant called Zampano near the piazza della Cancelleria. No tourist trap, this one.. this was the real deal, teeming with Romans. To say the food was splendid would be an understatement. I have never eaten pasta that good, and likely never will again... at least until my next trip to Italy!
This morning, after seeing my american buddy off, I went to the Pantheon, the Piazza Navona, the Piazza del Popolo, and half a dozen other attractions that in any other city would qualify as major attractions. But this is Rome, and you can only take a quick glance at the site of Julius Caesar's murder before quickly moving on to a massive temple raised by a conquering Emperor, or a huge ornate exquisite church crammed with priceless art treasures dedicated to a martyr of the Catholic Church, or some other wonder. Rome hoards its ruins and guards them greedily. There are so many in this city, that they have almost become mundane. Then you remember that some of these works were wrought two millenia ago by the people that laid the foundations of Western Civilization. They are worthy of our wonder.
Lunch, a sandwich of prosciutto and cheese bought from a deli and a little bottle of wine, was eaten on the Spanish steps... at least until David (a bloke from Kent who came along for the walk) and I were approached by a guard who didnt appreciate us eating on this "Monumento Nazionale". I cocked an eyebrow at the guy. To the left were a bunch of clowns eating potato chips out of plastic bags. To the right were some girls smoking and drinking. Whatever. I apologized to the guy, and smiled my best smile at him. Putting a slight crimp in my plans perhaps... but could I really complain when I was enjoying a fine afternoon on the Spanish steps?
Right now, it would take a heck of alot more than that to get me down!
This morning, after seeing my american buddy off, I went to the Pantheon, the Piazza Navona, the Piazza del Popolo, and half a dozen other attractions that in any other city would qualify as major attractions. But this is Rome, and you can only take a quick glance at the site of Julius Caesar's murder before quickly moving on to a massive temple raised by a conquering Emperor, or a huge ornate exquisite church crammed with priceless art treasures dedicated to a martyr of the Catholic Church, or some other wonder. Rome hoards its ruins and guards them greedily. There are so many in this city, that they have almost become mundane. Then you remember that some of these works were wrought two millenia ago by the people that laid the foundations of Western Civilization. They are worthy of our wonder.
Lunch, a sandwich of prosciutto and cheese bought from a deli and a little bottle of wine, was eaten on the Spanish steps... at least until David (a bloke from Kent who came along for the walk) and I were approached by a guard who didnt appreciate us eating on this "Monumento Nazionale". I cocked an eyebrow at the guy. To the left were a bunch of clowns eating potato chips out of plastic bags. To the right were some girls smoking and drinking. Whatever. I apologized to the guy, and smiled my best smile at him. Putting a slight crimp in my plans perhaps... but could I really complain when I was enjoying a fine afternoon on the Spanish steps?
Right now, it would take a heck of alot more than that to get me down!
Sunday, May 09, 2004
This morning, I woke up at 11 am in a haze of alcohol fumes and dim memories from last night. The pub crawl was amazing!
I'll spare my reader the gory details, but many whiskey and cokes and shots were consumed at five of Rome's seediest and liveliest drinking establishments. I must have met 30 people and forgotten almost all the names (There were at least 50 people on this crawl). One name I didn't forget was Rosalie, the name of a girl from Quebec City who had been living in France for a year and was delighted to speak joual to a fellow Canadian after months of softening her accent for les francais. I went along with 4 other people from the hostel, an american, a brit, and two aussies from Tazmania. We did it up big, no doubt about it! The atmosphere was great, and nearly everyone was very talkative and friendly. I barely remember stumbling back to the hostel and collapsing sometime around 4 a.m.
Today, naturally, was expected to be a writeoff... but I am not one to take things lying down. I convinced my companions from last night to jump on the metro and spend the afternoon on the Via Apia Antica (the ancient Roman road also known as the Apian Way). We also visited some incredible catacombs, where the bodies of early Christian martyrs were buried by the hundreds in the time of the persecutions. I found it interesting that the adherents of this religion, that had suffered such torment at the hands of the empire, used symbols like fish and sheep as their symbols of their faith. In the face of cruelty and degradation, their art was the embodiment of serenenity, not wrath, or despair. Pretty inspiring.
I'll spare my reader the gory details, but many whiskey and cokes and shots were consumed at five of Rome's seediest and liveliest drinking establishments. I must have met 30 people and forgotten almost all the names (There were at least 50 people on this crawl). One name I didn't forget was Rosalie, the name of a girl from Quebec City who had been living in France for a year and was delighted to speak joual to a fellow Canadian after months of softening her accent for les francais. I went along with 4 other people from the hostel, an american, a brit, and two aussies from Tazmania. We did it up big, no doubt about it! The atmosphere was great, and nearly everyone was very talkative and friendly. I barely remember stumbling back to the hostel and collapsing sometime around 4 a.m.
Today, naturally, was expected to be a writeoff... but I am not one to take things lying down. I convinced my companions from last night to jump on the metro and spend the afternoon on the Via Apia Antica (the ancient Roman road also known as the Apian Way). We also visited some incredible catacombs, where the bodies of early Christian martyrs were buried by the hundreds in the time of the persecutions. I found it interesting that the adherents of this religion, that had suffered such torment at the hands of the empire, used symbols like fish and sheep as their symbols of their faith. In the face of cruelty and degradation, their art was the embodiment of serenenity, not wrath, or despair. Pretty inspiring.
Saturday, May 08, 2004
Last night, I joined an american and another Canadian for an unbelievably delicious supper washed down with chianti in the Centro Storico, somewhere in the vicinity of the Pantheon and the Piazza Navona. The former is more magnificent than any picture could possibly lead you to believe. Lit up with floodlights, it is like an exquisite piece of early Imperial Rome transported through time completely intact and dropped down smack-dab in the middle of a 21st century city. We wandered around rather aimlessly staring at jaw-dropping sights until we happened upon a little bar tucked away in some alley. It proved to be full of people so we ordered some beers and sat down. Just as we were settling in, some guy hollered something to those assembled, and they got up as one, and filed out of the place. I quickly asked one of the limey girls whether or not they were on a Pub Crawl.. "Yeah, Rome-ing tours" she told me... I kinda found that funny, for reasons known only to myself and one other person.
Pub crawls seem to be a real hit with the hostel crowd here in Rome (The one I am staying in is both cheap and close to everything, so I will be staying put here for at least a few more days... besides, it looks like most other hostels in the area are full... some of the people here did some checking)... I'll be going on one tonight, God help my liver --two nights ago, I gave that particular organ a pounding watching Chelsea play Milan with an Englishman... I should have known better!
Today, I went to The Vatican Museum and Saint Peter's Basillica with Jinead (who is a pretty good guy, for an American). The Vatican was breathtaking... I was nearly brought to tears by some of the masterpieces of Italian art in there, that is how moving it was. I didnt even get a chance to see The Sistine Chapel (Crazy crowds!) So I'll definitely be going back in a couple of days. Saint Peter's is immense. Worthy of comparison to the great palaces of Europe. It is a true monument to the power and majesty of the Church of Rome in its heyday. I saw the crypt where the bones of St Peter are kept, and those of dozens of other popes besides. Many photos were taken, and most will not do justice to its magnificence... but that is just an incentive for people who see them to come to Rome and see the real things for themselves... I highly recommend it!
Pub crawls seem to be a real hit with the hostel crowd here in Rome (The one I am staying in is both cheap and close to everything, so I will be staying put here for at least a few more days... besides, it looks like most other hostels in the area are full... some of the people here did some checking)... I'll be going on one tonight, God help my liver --two nights ago, I gave that particular organ a pounding watching Chelsea play Milan with an Englishman... I should have known better!
Today, I went to The Vatican Museum and Saint Peter's Basillica with Jinead (who is a pretty good guy, for an American). The Vatican was breathtaking... I was nearly brought to tears by some of the masterpieces of Italian art in there, that is how moving it was. I didnt even get a chance to see The Sistine Chapel (Crazy crowds!) So I'll definitely be going back in a couple of days. Saint Peter's is immense. Worthy of comparison to the great palaces of Europe. It is a true monument to the power and majesty of the Church of Rome in its heyday. I saw the crypt where the bones of St Peter are kept, and those of dozens of other popes besides. Many photos were taken, and most will not do justice to its magnificence... but that is just an incentive for people who see them to come to Rome and see the real things for themselves... I highly recommend it!
Friday, May 07, 2004
SENATUS POPULUSQUE ROMANUS ~ THE SENATE AND THE PEOPLE OF ROME
SPQR
Everywhere you go in Rome, you see those four letters. On the signs, on the manholes, on the buildings... On the ancient monuments that the Caesars put up when the republic had long ceased to be about the people and senate of Rome and the divine emperors ruled from the Black Sea to the Atlantic, it was still stamped on everything... perhaps hearkening back to a nobler, more idealistic time? Like anytime an American politician refers to the declaration of independence, and the idea that they hold certain truths to be self-evident, that all men are created equal, etc. etc...
Today I walked in the forum, where 2000 years ago Marc Antony delivered Caesar's funeral oration. I gazed upon Titus' arch, comemorating his victory in the Jewish war. Today, I pretty well gorged myself on history, wandering through the Colosseum, where civilized people gathered and gorged themselves on magnificently decadent and bloody spectacles of battle between man and man, and man and beast. -Interestingly enough, I also found out that contrary to popular belief, Christians were not martyred there, but in another location entirely. The Colosseum was about sport... and watching helpless Christians get eaten by hungry lions... well, there isnt much sport in that!
Ive seen so much today... I am almost scared that it will all be downhill from here! Well gotta have FAITH!
*Have Faith!
SPQR
Everywhere you go in Rome, you see those four letters. On the signs, on the manholes, on the buildings... On the ancient monuments that the Caesars put up when the republic had long ceased to be about the people and senate of Rome and the divine emperors ruled from the Black Sea to the Atlantic, it was still stamped on everything... perhaps hearkening back to a nobler, more idealistic time? Like anytime an American politician refers to the declaration of independence, and the idea that they hold certain truths to be self-evident, that all men are created equal, etc. etc...
Today I walked in the forum, where 2000 years ago Marc Antony delivered Caesar's funeral oration. I gazed upon Titus' arch, comemorating his victory in the Jewish war. Today, I pretty well gorged myself on history, wandering through the Colosseum, where civilized people gathered and gorged themselves on magnificently decadent and bloody spectacles of battle between man and man, and man and beast. -Interestingly enough, I also found out that contrary to popular belief, Christians were not martyred there, but in another location entirely. The Colosseum was about sport... and watching helpless Christians get eaten by hungry lions... well, there isnt much sport in that!
Ive seen so much today... I am almost scared that it will all be downhill from here! Well gotta have FAITH!
*Have Faith!
Tuesday, May 04, 2004
Sunday, May 02, 2004
Update...
THIS sucks... I'll be in Rome in a few days. This kinda thing reminds me of how quickly fun times can turn tragic.
Oh, yeah! I've found my new playoff headquarters to keep abreast of things while away from my home and native land. With a site called CANOE, ya gotta figure they have the Canadian content covered.
At the risk of angering some, and alienating others permanently... now that the Sens have tanked...
GO LEAFS GO
It has only been a couple of days, and I already miss talking to some of you people... and the one I miss talking to most of all, well, you know who you are... :-)
THIS sucks... I'll be in Rome in a few days. This kinda thing reminds me of how quickly fun times can turn tragic.
Oh, yeah! I've found my new playoff headquarters to keep abreast of things while away from my home and native land. With a site called CANOE, ya gotta figure they have the Canadian content covered.
At the risk of angering some, and alienating others permanently... now that the Sens have tanked...
GO LEAFS GO
It has only been a couple of days, and I already miss talking to some of you people... and the one I miss talking to most of all, well, you know who you are... :-)
The swompdonkey chronicles... uk edition.
I'm sitting in an internet cafe somewhere deep within the bowels of Heathrow airport, reflecting on how lucky we are to still be able to move with such ease from one side of the globe to the other in spite of all the crap that has happened in recent years... A few hours ago, I was celebrating my brother Joe's birthday with him and his friends in Mississauga. Now I'm about to hop on a bus to go see my Grandma in Devon. Some had warned me that security in airports was becoming tougher again, after an incomprehensible little lapse somewhere between 9-11 and 3-11 (the Madrid bombings). Well, if it has been tightened, it isn't that noticeable... which I suppose is a good thing. Nobody wants to feel like they live in a police state. No heavily-armed guards at Pearson and I breezed through customs on my EU passport. Almost enough to make you think that we are back to business as usual in this twisted little world of ours...
I'm sitting in an internet cafe somewhere deep within the bowels of Heathrow airport, reflecting on how lucky we are to still be able to move with such ease from one side of the globe to the other in spite of all the crap that has happened in recent years... A few hours ago, I was celebrating my brother Joe's birthday with him and his friends in Mississauga. Now I'm about to hop on a bus to go see my Grandma in Devon. Some had warned me that security in airports was becoming tougher again, after an incomprehensible little lapse somewhere between 9-11 and 3-11 (the Madrid bombings). Well, if it has been tightened, it isn't that noticeable... which I suppose is a good thing. Nobody wants to feel like they live in a police state. No heavily-armed guards at Pearson and I breezed through customs on my EU passport. Almost enough to make you think that we are back to business as usual in this twisted little world of ours...
Tuesday, April 27, 2004
The question is bound to come up sooner or later: What the heck is a SWOMPDONKEY ?
Well, for starters, it is a corruption of two different words
SWAMP
and
DONKEY
I checked another online dictionary to find the definition of "Swamp donkey", and was pretty surprised that out of 28 different definitions, only one got it right...
Anyone who grew up in Northern Ontario can tell you that "swamp donkey" is slang for Alces Canadensis, a.k.a. the Canadian Moose!
The term is generally used in a mildly pejorative way. For example "Holy jeez, you shoulda been there! I spilled my beer when I almost hit a friggin' swamp donkey with my four-by-four!"
The majestic moose, proud denizen of the Canadian hinterland! A fitting symbol for my blog.
Well, for starters, it is a corruption of two different words
SWAMP
and
DONKEY
I checked another online dictionary to find the definition of "Swamp donkey", and was pretty surprised that out of 28 different definitions, only one got it right...
Anyone who grew up in Northern Ontario can tell you that "swamp donkey" is slang for Alces Canadensis, a.k.a. the Canadian Moose!
The term is generally used in a mildly pejorative way. For example "Holy jeez, you shoulda been there! I spilled my beer when I almost hit a friggin' swamp donkey with my four-by-four!"
The majestic moose, proud denizen of the Canadian hinterland! A fitting symbol for my blog.
Monday, April 26, 2004
Just out of curiosity, I did a little google search today.... I think that the "RATE MY" craze is getting a bit out of hand. There are certain things that should never ever be submitted for evaluation under any circumstances. Like, for instance, THIS, THIS, and THIS. Then there is THIS site, which must have irritated alot of pimps and mysogynists who visited expecting something else entirely.
Friday, April 23, 2004
Surf on over to Andrew Coyne's Blog and read his opinion on the Kadhrs... I gotta admit, I've of two minds on this one... however, I love the following post by Birdgunner in the comments section!:
Andrew's comment about charging the Khadrs with a crime is germane. Sections 46 and 47 of the Criminal Code of Canada state that:
46. (1) Every one commits high treason who, in Canada...
(c) assists an enemy at war with Canada, or any armed forces against whom Canadian Forces are engaged in hostilities, whether or not a state of war exists between Canada and the country whose forces they are...
3) Notwithstanding subsection (1) or (2), a Canadian citizen or a person who owes allegiance to Her Majesty in right of Canada,
(a) commits high treason if, while in or out of Canada, he does anything mentioned in subsection (1); or
47. (1) Every one who commits high treason is guilty of an indictable offence and shall be sentenced to imprisonment for life.
---
All of this seems pretty clear to me. Whether or not Canada is at war with al Qaeda (or other Islamic nihilists) is immaterial; they are at war with us, and have told us so. On prima facie evidence alone there appears to be grounds for charges of treason, perhaps even high treason, against select members of the Khadr family.
I don't mind if the Khadrs retain their citizenship and enjoy Canadian standards of living and free medical care. I just think that they should be doing it from behind the bars of a federal penitentiary
Andrew's comment about charging the Khadrs with a crime is germane. Sections 46 and 47 of the Criminal Code of Canada state that:
46. (1) Every one commits high treason who, in Canada...
(c) assists an enemy at war with Canada, or any armed forces against whom Canadian Forces are engaged in hostilities, whether or not a state of war exists between Canada and the country whose forces they are...
3) Notwithstanding subsection (1) or (2), a Canadian citizen or a person who owes allegiance to Her Majesty in right of Canada,
(a) commits high treason if, while in or out of Canada, he does anything mentioned in subsection (1); or
47. (1) Every one who commits high treason is guilty of an indictable offence and shall be sentenced to imprisonment for life.
---
All of this seems pretty clear to me. Whether or not Canada is at war with al Qaeda (or other Islamic nihilists) is immaterial; they are at war with us, and have told us so. On prima facie evidence alone there appears to be grounds for charges of treason, perhaps even high treason, against select members of the Khadr family.
I don't mind if the Khadrs retain their citizenship and enjoy Canadian standards of living and free medical care. I just think that they should be doing it from behind the bars of a federal penitentiary
Thursday, April 22, 2004
BULLSHIT!
Edith, i have only one thing to say about this:Shit or get off the pot!
Am I the only one who sees a gross conflict of interest? Here we have a woman dedicating her free time to breaking up the coutry as the new president of the separatist organization "Quebec, un pays".... What does Mme Gendron do as a day job? why she happens to be a Senior Program Officer at Canadian Heritage. Canadian Heritage? Yeah, the department dedicated to promoting "a More Cohesive and Creative Canada". If the government had any balls, it would throw this seperatist out on her ass.
A house divided against itself cannot stand.
Edith, i have only one thing to say about this:Shit or get off the pot!
Am I the only one who sees a gross conflict of interest? Here we have a woman dedicating her free time to breaking up the coutry as the new president of the separatist organization "Quebec, un pays".... What does Mme Gendron do as a day job? why she happens to be a Senior Program Officer at Canadian Heritage. Canadian Heritage? Yeah, the department dedicated to promoting "a More Cohesive and Creative Canada". If the government had any balls, it would throw this seperatist out on her ass.
A house divided against itself cannot stand.
Wednesday, April 21, 2004
Bachelor update 3...this update is given under duress.
OK, so I start watching the Bachelor ten minutes into the show. Jenny S.,the mole- wait, wrong show -the spy is practically in tears about Trish. The ladies are playing that drinking game where you take a drink every time someone mentions something you have done... the game has already turned sexual, if it didn't start that way (I missed the beginning). Trish is tossing back the the plonk like nobody's business. As far as I can tell, she has done everything there is to do of a sexual nature in every possible location, seemingly with half the adult male population of Fort Lauderdale, Florida. Oh yeah, she also has "cheating with a married man" on her resume... and she's still single? What is it about Trish that Jenny S. doesn't like? Hmmm... I wonder.
Back from the break, the boy-genius lets us in on the fact that things may get awkward between
Mandy-Jaye, the sassy Texan and Trish, everyone's favourite, on their double date. If by awkward, you mean "hostile staring-daggers-at-each-other awkward", Jesse, you are indeed a very perceptive young man. M-J isn't alone in her hostility towards the Florida floozy. Trish sees herself as "the craziest woman in the house".... whereas other girls call her a "Gold-digging skank"... but who's to say what the truth is?
Following the break, Jenny tells us that Tara is perfect for Jesse. What this means is that our clueless suitor will no doubt kick her through the uprights and right out of the mansion at the next rose ceremony. Meanwhile back at the house, Trish is offending people with her lewd revelations again. This show should just be renamed "The Gold-digging skank", in honour of its true star. Jesse kisses Tara during the date, in spite of her objections... way to push through that defense, Jess. Just don't spike the ball and do a touchdown dance in the endzone, OK?
The next day, "the shame of Ottawa" as I am begining to think of him, and a bunch of the girls go off on a date to build a house for habitat for humanity. At the group date, Jenny S. gives Jesse the goods on Trish, including this line "You hate divorce... she may have caused one!" OUCH! His response "there are some things I have to confront Trish about" Huh? What the hell is the point of confronting her on anything? She has admitted who she is to everyone else.... it isn't like she is ashamed of her past behaviour. I'm not even sure that someone like that has the capacity for shame.
Back at the loveshack, during a BBQ and hot tub party, charmingly insecure Jessie H. becomes creepily weird Jessie H. in the space of about 10 seconds (I just realized... there are too many damn Jesses on this damn show). Even Jesse realizes he is creeped out... and this is a guy that I'm not sure realizes he is awake half the time. Is this our future stalker?
Before the rose ceremony, Jesse is confused, probably not for the first time that day. Jesse S. does not want a rose, she wants to rid herself of the burden of being the spy... no kidding, your boy is really clueless. You have done everything short of beating him over the head with your shoe to get him to clue in... give it up. Spygirl tells her boy that he should follow his heart.
Rose ceremony... it ain't no longer about first impressions, that's fo sho! Mandy-J gets a rose, adorable Suzy with her wrinkly nose does too, as do coy Tara (well what do you know!), Jessica B-the so-cal hottie, Karen -the weird-looking pageant queen, and Trish... wait-just-a-g-damn-minute... TRISH? Are you kidding me? Jesse needs to wear his helmet during practice more often.
Julie the pro cheerleader is upset that she was overlooked for someone like Trish... our spy says she is "worried"... Jenny, you may be worried.... frankly, I'm terrified!
On the next show... things get more insipid... Hmm looks like Jessie H. who gets the boot in this one, is not our stalker. Could the stalker end up being Trish? That would be too cool!
My brain hurts...
OK, so I start watching the Bachelor ten minutes into the show. Jenny S.,the mole- wait, wrong show -the spy is practically in tears about Trish. The ladies are playing that drinking game where you take a drink every time someone mentions something you have done... the game has already turned sexual, if it didn't start that way (I missed the beginning). Trish is tossing back the the plonk like nobody's business. As far as I can tell, she has done everything there is to do of a sexual nature in every possible location, seemingly with half the adult male population of Fort Lauderdale, Florida. Oh yeah, she also has "cheating with a married man" on her resume... and she's still single? What is it about Trish that Jenny S. doesn't like? Hmmm... I wonder.
Back from the break, the boy-genius lets us in on the fact that things may get awkward between
Mandy-Jaye, the sassy Texan and Trish, everyone's favourite, on their double date. If by awkward, you mean "hostile staring-daggers-at-each-other awkward", Jesse, you are indeed a very perceptive young man. M-J isn't alone in her hostility towards the Florida floozy. Trish sees herself as "the craziest woman in the house".... whereas other girls call her a "Gold-digging skank"... but who's to say what the truth is?
Following the break, Jenny tells us that Tara is perfect for Jesse. What this means is that our clueless suitor will no doubt kick her through the uprights and right out of the mansion at the next rose ceremony. Meanwhile back at the house, Trish is offending people with her lewd revelations again. This show should just be renamed "The Gold-digging skank", in honour of its true star. Jesse kisses Tara during the date, in spite of her objections... way to push through that defense, Jess. Just don't spike the ball and do a touchdown dance in the endzone, OK?
The next day, "the shame of Ottawa" as I am begining to think of him, and a bunch of the girls go off on a date to build a house for habitat for humanity. At the group date, Jenny S. gives Jesse the goods on Trish, including this line "You hate divorce... she may have caused one!" OUCH! His response "there are some things I have to confront Trish about" Huh? What the hell is the point of confronting her on anything? She has admitted who she is to everyone else.... it isn't like she is ashamed of her past behaviour. I'm not even sure that someone like that has the capacity for shame.
Back at the loveshack, during a BBQ and hot tub party, charmingly insecure Jessie H. becomes creepily weird Jessie H. in the space of about 10 seconds (I just realized... there are too many damn Jesses on this damn show). Even Jesse realizes he is creeped out... and this is a guy that I'm not sure realizes he is awake half the time. Is this our future stalker?
Before the rose ceremony, Jesse is confused, probably not for the first time that day. Jesse S. does not want a rose, she wants to rid herself of the burden of being the spy... no kidding, your boy is really clueless. You have done everything short of beating him over the head with your shoe to get him to clue in... give it up. Spygirl tells her boy that he should follow his heart.
Rose ceremony... it ain't no longer about first impressions, that's fo sho! Mandy-J gets a rose, adorable Suzy with her wrinkly nose does too, as do coy Tara (well what do you know!), Jessica B-the so-cal hottie, Karen -the weird-looking pageant queen, and Trish... wait-just-a-g-damn-minute... TRISH? Are you kidding me? Jesse needs to wear his helmet during practice more often.
Julie the pro cheerleader is upset that she was overlooked for someone like Trish... our spy says she is "worried"... Jenny, you may be worried.... frankly, I'm terrified!
On the next show... things get more insipid... Hmm looks like Jessie H. who gets the boot in this one, is not our stalker. Could the stalker end up being Trish? That would be too cool!
My brain hurts...
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